Most pairing advice is written for a dinner party that doesn't exist — formal courses, predictable wines, a table that behaves. Real pairing is about people: what they like, what they're eating, what the evening is for.
In the cellar and at the chef's counter, I pair twelve courses a night for tables that have never agreed on anything. These are the rules that survive contact with reality.
The rules that matter
Acidity is the engine. A wine with enough acid can stand next to almost any food — which is why champagne goes with everything from oysters to fried chicken, and why an Italian white will rescue a dish that has defeated a red. When in doubt, reach for acid.
Match weight, not colour. A delicate fish kills a big red; a rich mushroom dish can carry a serious white. The old 'red with meat, white with fish' survives because it's a weight rule wearing a colour costume.
The ones I break
Tannin and chilli don't fight — mild chilli actually loves a soft red; it's the combination of heat and oak that's the problem. Sweet wines aren't just for dessert — an off-dry riesling with spicy food is the pairing I use to convert sceptics.
- Acid rescues almost everything — when in doubt, go brighter
- Match weight, not colour — delicate food, delicate wine
- Salt loves acid and bubbles — oysters, champagne, done
- Sweet needs sweeter — the wine must out-sweeten the dish
- Tannin hates egg and heat — brunch reds are a trap
And the biggest: the guest's preference beats the textbook every time. A perfect pairing someone doesn't enjoy is a failed pairing. I'd rather put a beloved wine next to a difficult dish than the reverse.
Try it yourself
The cellar's regional flights are the best classroom — six glasses, one theme, my notes and my disagreements with the critics. The blind sessions are where the real learning happens: no labels, no price cues, just the glass.
For the full version, book a private cellar session and bring your questions — or your own bottle, and we'll build the evening around it. The counter is where the rules get applied nightly.
